The life of a freelance yoga instructor, self-defense teacher, and adventure sports writer involves a lot of free time. I used to devote an embarrassing amount of that free time to trawling the Yoga Trade website. The secret to using the site well is to know when to daydream about an opportunity, when to seize it, and to love what you find. So when I saw a listing looking for yoga teachers to assist hiking retreats in Norway, I knew it was time to pounce. I just didn’t know that pouncing would change my life.
I’ve always wanted to visit Norway but it’s notoriously expensive and I’ve never had the money to go. I’ve lived above the 60th-degree latitude so I knew what I was getting into. I’ve worked as a hiking guide, I’m a natural history nerd, I have wilderness first responder training, I’ve been teaching and practicing yoga for over 30 years. I knew I was perfect for the job. I just had to convince the woman running the retreats that I was perfect for the job.
I was at a yoga retreat in Bali when I saw the listing, so I had limited internet access and no cell reception. I crafted a carefully worded letter of introduction, gathered my CV and a few yoga photos, and tried to send them off. The message didn’t appear to land, so I bombarded this poor woman at every portal I could access: YogaTrade, WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger, and her personal email. I don’t know if she was impressed or annoyed, but she called me within a day. After a week of communication, I was able to convince her to stop looking at other applications and bring me to Molde for the month of August.
I neglected to research my remarkable hostess. Pille Mitt was born in Estonia when it was part of the USSR. She grew up under an authoritarian regime that denied the most basic freedoms I often take for granted- the ability to choose where I want to live, travel, and pursue an education or career. With the collapse of the Soviet Union Pille was able to offer exercise classes and eventually open her own gym. Online dating brought her to Molde, Norway, where she lost the guy but found a new home. A yoga teacher training in Rishikesh opened new windows, and now she teaches at both yoga studios in town and offers yoga and hiking retreats in various locations throughout the year. “I have to stop having such a good life!” she jokes. “Time flies when you’re having fun, so my life is passing too quickly!”
I also neglected to research the hikes. The first day we warmed up with a casual stroll out of town which led to the ascent of a nearby peak. Then we hiked a mountain overlooking the next day’s destination, with the option of climbing a nearby twin summit. One day saw us ascend steep muddy slopes to the Troll’s Church, a limestone cavern with a 40 ft waterfall inside. We traveled by ferry and car, climbed mountains, crawled through caves, jumped in alpine lakes, and swam in the frigid Atlantic. Each day brought stunning vistas, the option to picnic and relax or hike as hard as we could. One day was a glorious road trip up a series of hairpin turns to a precariously perched restaurant and café. We dispersed like a flock of birds and came back together to meditate on a quiet ridge.
The first group was all female, and we bonded like the loving family I never had. Two Lebanese women and an Israeli woman broke bread together every day; they are not allowed to travel to each other’s homes and would probably never have met otherwise. We pushed each other to hike harder and relax more deeply, comforted and inspired each other, learned from shared stories of triumph and failure. I’ve led groups from southeast Alaska to Southeast Asia and never experienced one with more authentic love or less bitchy drama.
Over the following month my life fell into a simple rhythm: wake up, meditate, plan yoga classes, do yoga, eat breakfast, hike all day, teach yoga, eat dinner, fall asleep, wake up and do it again. Rainy days invited a road trip, a philosophy discussion, an extended yoga class, a shorter hike. After the first group left, Pille and I had two half days free. We scheduled an outdoor community yoga class, shopped for food, and went for a hike. When you’re doing what you love, you never want a day off.
Pille and I cried when I boarded the bus for Oslo. We are both intense athletic tomboy powerhouses and were afraid we wouldn’t meet another kindred spirit until our paths crossed again. Fortunately, that won’t be long. We plan to lead yoga and hiking retreats together in Alaska, Norway, and California in 2020. Guests from last August have already signed up, eager to hang out with us again. We are considering offering yoga teacher training together in 2021. The only bummer is I don’t have time to daydream about opportunities offered on Yoga Trade anymore. I’m too busy living them! Love what you find!
Read more about our yoga and hiking retreat in Norway here.
Romsdalseggen ridge is one of the world’s most scenic hikes (Lonely Planet 2011). This hike through the dramatic landscape features many highlights. From the ridge, you can see the majestic Trollveggen cliff, surrounded by a number of well-known mountains. Romsdalseggen ridge is one of the most spectacular backdrops in the world, not far from the mountaineering capital Åndalsnes.
The ascent is hard-going and steep, but the view that awaits you at the top is well worth the effort! From the ridge, you look directly at the legendary Trollveggen cliff, Europe’s highest perpendicular rock face – crowned by rugged mountains. To the southeast, you can see the Dalsida landscape protection area, which extends all the way to the Dovrefjell and Sunndalsfjella mountains, with the highest peak Snøhetta.
The mountains Romsdalshorn and Store Venjetind tower-like spires into the sky. It is not hard to understand why this sea of jagged peaks, ridges, and wild precipices has drawn mountaineers to the area for centuries. To the southwest, you can see Reinheimen National Park and the well-known mountains Bispen, Kongen and Dronninga. From Romsdalseggen ridge, you also get a view of Romsdalen valley, with the Rauma river winding its way through the lush landscape out to the fjord and Åndalsnes.
Romsdalseggen ridge hike is not circular. It starts in Venjesdalsetra and finishes in Åndalsnes. You can take a special bus from Åndalsnes or you need two cars. The bus runs daily in the summertime, from June until September. You can book your ticket here. It is easy to find the bus stop, it is in front of the Climbing Museum or Norsk Tindesenter/Tourist Information/train station.
The trail is easy to follow, marked, and signposted with red dots. Besides the red trail marks, there are additional posts showing the progress of your hike.
If you are not particularly fond of airy ridges, you can take an easier path that bypasses the steepest and airiest sections. It also starts at Venjedalssetra and only forks from the main trail at 2,5th kilometer, at the plateau, and is signposted to Høgnosa. It joins back the main trail on the 7th kilometer. Taking this trail will add 2 extra kilometers to the hike. but to tell the truth, all descents and ascents which could be challenging, are secured with chains which are very helpful.
At the end of the ridge, Nesaksla has located an old, cute stone hut, a brand-new Eggen restaurant, and Romsdalens Gondola. From here it is a steep and hard descent from over 700 meters down to Åndalsnes. Despite the Sherpa steps (steep stony steps built in 2013 by Nepalese Sherpas), it can be a struggle to walk down, painful and hard on the knees.
In May 2021 opened Norway's longest skylift - The Romsdalens Gondola. Romsdalsgandolen is the longest cable car in Norway, the idea of this cable car appeared in 1964 and the ride takes about 5 minutes. The maximum speed is 10 m/s, and the climb reaches 73 percent. The cabins are able to carry 45 passengers and depart every half an hour, but it is promised to run it continuously if awaiting passengers will appear. The gondola departs from the town center of Åndalsnes (next to the Tindesenter museum) and goes to the top of Nesaksla mountain. Once at the top, you can enjoy a 360-degree view of your surroundings, including the famous peaks Romsdalshorn, Store Vengetind, and Kirketaket. Indulge not only your sense of sight but your sense of taste as well and visit Eggen Restaurant at the top of Nesaksla. The restaurant offers traditional, seasonal, and local cuisine with unobstructed views over Romsdalen. Walk along the nature paths before heading back down to Åndalsnes. You can choose to ride the gondola back down or hike down the mountain which allows you to visit the famous Rampestreken viewpoint on the way. The gondola runs year-round and is suitable for people with disabilities.
Would you like to join us in the Romsdalseggen hike? You can see a selection of our guided day hikes here.